Sunday, 3 November 2019

Travel Guide - Mayiladuthurai Temples-Part 3

Day 3 of Mayiladuthurai temple trip

It was day 3 of our trip and we wanted to cover as much as temples before noon so that we reach Chennai back by late evening. Check out from Ranga Residency was done about 6:30 am to start our journey

1. Thiruindalur - Parimala Ranganathar Temple (Divya Desam)

This beautiful temple is located about 2 kms from Mayiladuthurai main and just in front of the Ranga residency hotel. Although we stayed for two days, we could not have darshan on the first and second day and we decided to have Parimala Ranganathar darshan first thing in the morning. We walked to the temple just in time for the Gho Pooja (Cow pooja) and first darshan of the magnificient Lord in reclining posture (Ranganathar). 

This is one among the 108 divya desams of Lord Vishnu and sung by Thirumangai Azhwar. This is also one among the Pancha Ranga Shetram where the Lord is in reclining posture. They are as given below.

  • Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple - Srirangapatnam, Karnataka near mysore
  • Sri Appalarangan Temple(Appakudanthan temple)- Koviladi (Tirupernagar) - Thanjavur
  • Sri Ranganatha Swamy Temple - Vadarangam - nagapattinam
  • Sri Sarangapani Temple - Kumbakonam
  • Sri Ranganatha Swamy Temple - Srirangam - Trichy

This temple is also famous for Ekadasi fasting and as per the legend King Ambarish with divine presence in this temple after 100 Ekadashi fasting days.

2. Thirukkodikaval -Kodeeswarar Temple

After having darshan of Ranganathar we had breakfast at Kaliakudi hotel and proceeded to Thirukkodival Tempple

This temple is located at a distance of about 17 kms west of Mayiladuthurai on the Aduthurai-Kuthalam road and Kallanai-Poompuhar road. We reached the temple around 8:30 am.

This is one among the Paadal Petra Sthalam sung by both Gnanasambandar (1 pathigam) and Appar (3 pathigams)

  • Multitudes of Gods (Koti) are said to have worshipped at this shrine beautified by countless gardens (kavu), hence Kotikka (Koti in tamil means a crore)
  • The presiding deity is Kodikka Eswarar, Tirukoteeswarar and the Ambal Vadivambikai The Theertham is Mukkoti Theertham.
  • Legend has it that Siva is said to have escorted a devotee Haradatta to Kanjanur nearby, and mysteriously disappeared. Vasishtar is said to have installed an image of Ganapati fashioned out of earth. 
  • It is also believed that the Azhwars were asked by Venkatachalapathi of Tirupati to worship Tripurasundari here before offering worship at Tirupati. Agasthyar is said to have helped them cross the Cauveri river, which was in spate. Tripurasundari Amman is then said to have blessed them with a vision of Venkatachalapati.


3. Kanjanoor - Arulmighu Agneeswarar Temple

Kanjanoor is just about 3.5 kms from Thirukodikaval, you have to continue west in Aduthurai-Kuthalam Road for about 2.5 kms and then turn right at Ayyanar temple and continue for about a km to reach the temple. We reached the temple around 9:30 am.

This temple is more popularly known as Sukran temple, one among the Navagraha Temples in and around Kumbakonam. Not many know this is also a Paadal petra sthalam sung by Appar. 

  • The presiding deity is Agneeswarar and Ambal Karpagambal
  • Legend has it that Brahma is said to have been blessed with a vision of Siva's marriage with Parvati here. Agni is said to have worshipped Siva here, hence the name Agneeswarar.
  •  Legend also has it that Siva blessed Paraasara muni with a vision of the cosmic dance - Mukti tandavam. 
  •  It is believed that Haradatta Sivacharyar, a Vaishnavite who was originally known as Sudarshanar, is said to have undergone ordeals to prove the tenacity of his devotion for Siva to the fellow Vaishnavites, and images depicting legends related to Haradatta Sivacharyar are seen in this temple. 
  • This is also the birth place of Maana Kanjara Nayanar


4. Thirumanagalakudi - Prananathar Mangalambigai Temple

From Kanjanoor, you have to trace back the route to take Kuthalam-Aduthurai road and travel 4 kms southwest to reach this temple. We reached this temple around 10 am.

This is a paadal petra sthalam and both Appar andGnanasambandar have sung the praise of the lord. Another famous Navagraha temple - Suryanar temple (dedicated to Lord Sun) is just located nearby to this temple. Itis believed that this temple should be visited first before proceding to Suryanar Kovil enshrining the Nava Grahams. 

  • The presiding deity is Prananatheswarar and the Ambal Mangalambika The sthala vriksham is Ilava Maram and the Theertham Mangala Theertham 
  • Legend has it that Parvati is said to have been relieved of a curse (wherein she had assumed the form of a parrot); this incident and the divine marriage are believed to have happened on Makara Sankaranti at this shetram - hence Mangala Kshetram. 



5. Thiruvelliyankudi - Kola Villi Ramar Temple (Divya Desam)

From Mangalakudi, Thiruvelliyankudi is about 8 kms, you have to travel in Aduthurai-Thirupanandal road for about 5 kms and then turn left near a government school and travel further for 3 kms to reach this temple.

This is one among the 108 Divya desams and sung by Thirumangai Azhwar.

  • The presiding deity is Kolavilli Ramar, sheerpathi nathan and Thayar Maragathavalli. Sthala virutcham is red plaintain.
  • As per the legend, Asura guru Shukra lost his eye sight and he was visiting many places to restore his sight. In this temple, he has worshiped Lord Vishnu and by His grace got back the vision. There is a Nethra deepam(a bulbous lamp representing the eye sight) in the main sanctum which is always lit.
  • It is believed that people having eye sight issues will get cure by praying here. Offering of gingelly oil to be used in Nethra deepam is considered to be good.
  • This is the only temple where Garuda bhagavan appears with fours hands like perumal.


6. Thirunthudevankudi (Nandankovil) - Karkadeshwarar Temple

From Thiruvelliyankudi, Nandankovil is about 13 kms. You have to take the route towards Senganoor and after travelling for nearly 2.5 kms you will reach Kumbakonam-Chennai Highway (NH36) on which you have to turn left and travel for nearly 8 kms, after passing the Mass polytechnic college turn left and travel for 1.5 kms to reach the temple. The last 1.5 km travel is really bad as the road is nothing but a dirt track with space for just about one car. Google map will show the route via Cholapuram but that route is not feasible as the roads are closed. We reached the temple around 11:15 am.

  • This is a paadal petra sthalam sung by Thirugnanasambandar. 
  • The presiding deity is Karkateswarar, Arumarundu Devar and the Ambal Arumarundu Nayaki; Aravinda Nayaki The Theertham is Pankaja Theertham 
  •  Legends has it that Parvati Devi took the form of a crab has worship Siva at this temple by collecting the lotus from a nearby pond and offering to the Lord. At the same time, Indra the chieftain of Devas also worshiped the lord and the lotus plants were maintained by him for the pooja. Since the crab was taking all the lotus, Indra was annoyed as he was not aware of the divine form behind that crab. He attacked the crab crawling on the Lingam with his sword which made a cut on the lingam but missed the crab. Lord Siva quickly came to the rescue by creating a hole in the lingam and offered protection to the crab. Indra realises the truth later and prayed to the Lord for forgiving him. that is the reason for the deity being called Karkateswarar, and the image of a golden crab can be seen on the Sivalingam during the ablution rituals. 
  • Siva is said to have in the guise of an elderly person, relieved a devout King of his painful affliction; and said to have directed him to the spot where the Sivalingam is now installed. He is also said to have promised to reveal to him medicines for other afflictions, hence the name Arumarundu Devar, the Lord of Medicine and Healing. It is believed that the vegetation covering the temple is of high medicinal value.
  • This temple is estimated to be more than 3000 years old.


7. Thiruvisainallur - Yoganandeswarar temple

This temple is just 1.5 kms from Nandan kovil. Again it is a small village road hence it is better during sunlight. We reached the temple around 11:45 am.

  • This is a paadal petra sthalam sung by Gnanasambandar.
  • The presiding deity is Sivayoginathar, Yoganandeswarar and the Ambal ShanthaNayaki;Soundaranayaki The sthala vriksham is Arasa maram and the Theertham Jatayu Theertham 
  • Legend has it that Brahma is said to have taken the form of a mortal, worshipped and merged with Siva here. It is believed that Agasthyar worships Siva during Sivaratri.
  • Chathurkala Bairavar is an unique aspect in this temple. There is a separate shrine in which there are four Bairavas - each representing Krita Yugam, Treta Yugam, Dwapara Yugam and Kali Yugam respectively. 
  • This is also a parihara sthalam for those born in Krithigai, Mrugashirisam, Rohini and Rishaba rasi.
  • Another interesting feature in this temple is the solar clock on the compound wall of temple premises. This clock is estimated to be 700 years old. Basically it has a dial face like any other clock and there is a long nail struck at the centre of the dial. Sun casts the shadow of the nail onto the dial which represents the current time. It is really a wonder how precisely the ancient people have calculated the path accounting for the tilt of the earth throughout the year and coming up a simple yet powerful mechanism for knowing the time. Also, the sun directly shines on the sivalingam during the first three days of Tamil new year (April 14 to 16)
Solar clock
We spent about half an hour in the big temple campus and it was about 12:30 pm when the temple was closed. With this, our pilgrimage tour got over and slowly we proceeded back to Kumbakonam-Chennai highway and continued our journey back to home at Chennai.

Click here to view the locations of temple

Courtesy: Google Maps

Links given below for Day 1 and Day 2 travel of the tour


Saturday, 12 October 2019

Travel Guide - Mayiladuthurai Temples-Part 2

This post is in continuation of my previous and it talks about day 2 of the temple trips around Mayiladuthurai. To refer to day 1 travel, click the link below

Day 1 travel guide

Day 3 Travel Guide

Forenoon Session

1. Thiru Nidur - Arulsomanathar Temple

We started from Mayiladuthurai (Ranga residency hotel) at about 6:45 am and the first temple visit planned was Thiru Nidur which is about 4 kms away. You have to travel north towards neivasal for about 3kms and then turn into agraharam street to reach Thiru Nidur. We reached around 7:15am and completed darshan by 7:45 am. This is yet another ancient temple, there is a big banyan tree on the entrance to the temple.

  • This is one among the Thevara Paadal Petra Sthalam and the presiding deity is Arulsomanathar, Somanathar and the Ambal Veyurutoliammai, Aalala Sundara Nayagi.
  • The sthala vriksham is Magizhamaram (Bakula) and the Theertham Senkazhuneerodai
  • Appar and Sundarar composed the Pathigam.
  • Legend has it that Indra, Surya, Chandra and Kaali are said to have worshipped here. Indra is believed to have created a Sivalingamout of earth from the banks of Cauveri river. Siva is also known as Karkateswarar and this name comes from the belief that a crab hadoffered worship to Siva. 
  •  On Sundays special worship is being conducted to Sun God in the shrine located in the temple.
  • Needur has been mentioned in ancient Sangam literature(Akanaanooru), and Sundarar and Appar have described its richness and natural wealth. It is believed that this shrine will remain indestructible through the great deluge, hence Needur (Needu in Tamil means one that lasts longer)
2. Thiru Korukkai - Veeratteswarar Temple

From Nidur, we proceeded to Thiru Korukkai which is about 7 kms away. You need to take the MDR257 route northbound towards kondal, after travelling for 2.8 kms in this road, take the left turn and continue for another 3 kms and then take left to reach the temple at about 1 km. 

Thiru Korukkai is a small peaceful village and this big temple is located among the lush greenery and coconut groves, humming of various birds provides a peaceful environment where one can feel the nature and meditate on the Lord peacefully. On the back side of the temple we saw a tree (Kadukai tree- Haritaki) on which hundreds of butterflies were buzzing around hoping from flower to flower of the tree, a great sight to behold.

Temple towers and other structures reflects the age of the temple, unfortunately they are not maintained for several years and we could see the rustic look with severe algal growth everywhere. We reached the temple around 8:30 am, main sanctum was closed and priest was also not present. Since the footfall is very low, generally these temples in remote locations will be closed condition. But the priests will be residing nearby and can be requested to open the temple. We asked the locals for priest's house which is just 200 metres away from the temple and he promptly obliged to open the temple. He was also kind enough to explain the significance of the temple.

This is one of the eight Veeratta sthalams of Lord Shiva. Veerata sthalam signifies the place where the Lord has expressed his ferocious form to kill demons or aid devas and the people for betterment of the world. In this Shrine, Lord Shiva burnt Manmathan, the Lord of Love, in the main sanctum at the base of the Sivalingam you can see a mark which represents the arrow of Manmathan shot at the Lord. As per the legend, there was once a demon by name Surapadman who had a boon that he could be killed only by a son of Lord Siva. By virtue of this boon, he was troubling the devas and conquered them, devas in their deseparate need to save themselves approached the Lord and appeal for a son of His to come and save them. But He was in deep transcendental meditation and no one could approach him. So they asked Manmathan to shoot an arrow of love from his sugarcane bow to disturb Lord's meditation. Extremely furious about the distraction caused by Manmathan, Lord Siva opened his third eye and Manmathan was reduced to ashes immediately. Manmathan's wife Rati pleaded to the Lord for forgiving her husband's mistake and restore his life. Lord was gracious and granted her wish that Manmathan will come back during the time when He marries Parvati. Lord also told the Devas that His son will be born soon and Lord Karthikeya was born who vanquished the demon Surpadman and his brothers.

Just about 300 metres from the temple, there is a small road that leads to the pit which according to the legend holds the ashes of Manmathan. This pit is located in a beautiful banana tree garden.

  •  The presiding deity is Veeratteswarar and the Ambal Gnanambika T
  • The sthala vriksham is Kadukkai and the Theertham Trishula Ganga 
  • One among the Paadal petra sthalams, Appar composed the Pathigam 
  •  A rishi by name Deergavahu performed the ritual of visiting several Saivite shrines, and invoking the river Ganges through his Yogic powers offered the waters to Siva. It is said that his arms got shrunk as he did the same at this sthalam, hence Tirukkurukkai. The annual brahmotsavam festival is conducted during the Tamil month of Masi. The slaying of Kama is enacted on Masi Magham.




Manmathan Ash Pit - Vibhuti Kuttai

3. Anniyoor (ponnoor) -Abathsahayeswarar  temple

It was almost 9:30 am when we completed the darshan at Thiru korukai and we were feeling hungry, since this is a small village you cannot hotels, so we started from Thiru Korukai to Ponnoor, although the road was small and winding, it was extremely beautiful with lush green paddy fields and coconut trees providing a picturesque location, we did some photo shoot and selfies, we asked the local villages about where can we find food and they pointed us to a small tea shop at a place called Pandur. It was a small tea shop run by a lady and the only option available was Idly with spicy onion chutney. But it was good and we quenched our hunger.

Ponnur is about 5 kms from Thirukorukai, there are no major named roads, but not difficult to navigate with help of local people guidance and google maps.

This is also a paadal petra sthalam and both Sambandar and Appar have composed the pathigam.
  • The presiding deity is Aabatsakayeswarar and the Ambal Periya Nayaki. 
  • The sthala vriksham is Lemon tree and the Theertham Varuna. 
  • We saw in the previous temple that Lord Shiva burnt Manmathan, following that Rathi Devi, wife of Manmathan prayed to Lord and He graced such that Manmathan will be visible only to her eyes until the curse is fully absolved.
  • The Pandavas are also believed to have visited this shrine. Siva is said to have blessed Harischandra here, and hence the name Aabatsakayeswarar. The sun's rays illuminate the sanctum for five days from the 24th day of the Tamil month of Panguni and hence this shrine is referred to as a Bhaskarastalam.
  • Another significant factor in this temple is that Lord Dakshinamurthy statue has a Simmam (Lion face) at the base, pls check the photo given below




4. Thirumanancheri - Arulvallal Nathar Temple

Thirumanancheri is about 6 kms from Ponnoor, you have to travel west bound on Kuthalam- thirumanancheri road for nearly 5.5 km and the last half km will be through a narrow road across a culvert.

We reached Thirumanancheri at about 11:15 am, although this is a Paadal Petra Sthalam sung by both Sambandar and Appar in their Thevara pathigams, this temple is more popular for removing the obstacles in marriage. It is a custom that those potential bridge/bridegrooms facing problems in their marriage offer prayers and after their marriage they come as couples and offer the parihara pooja again as the thanks giving to the Lord's Grace. Normally, devotees rush will be high in this temple.

As per the legend, this is the place Lord Shiva married Parvati. Goddess was born as the daughter of Bharata Muni and married the Lord.

  • The presiding deity is Arul Vallal, Kalyanasundareswarar and the Ambal Kuyilin Menmozhiammai, Kokilaambaal 
  • The sthala vriksham is Vanni and the Theertham Samudra Theertham 
  • Siva emerged from the lingam at Tirutturutti. Bharata Muni approached Siva and asked for his hand in marriage to Parvati and was married to Siva at this shetram, hence the name Tirumanancheri, and the Lord Kalyanasundareswarar. 
  •  The Tirukkalyanam is celebrated in the Tamil month of Chittirai; Kartikai Deepam, Arudra Darisanam and Navaratri are also celebrated here.

5. Thiru Ethirkol Padi (Mela Thirumanancheri) - Iyravatheswarar Temple

Just about half a km away from the Thirumanancheri temple is this beautiful temple. This is also a Paadal petra sthalam sung by Sundarar. It's quite ironical to see that this temple is not visited by many people, you could see devotees flocking to the Thirumanancheri temple but not bother to visit this temple which is close by. Rather than concentrating only on Parihara sthalams, if the devotees visit other temples also, it will definitely help in better maintenance of the temple and ensure livelihood of the priests also. It has to be borne in mind that the same Lord Siva is prevalent in all the temples and ready to shower His Grace. We reached this temple around 12 noon with only a few minutes let to close.

  • The presiding deity is Airavateswarar and the Ambal Malarkuzhal Maadammai. 
  • In the previous temples we saw that Lord Siva married Parvati, prior to the marriage, it is customary to receive bride groom and following the same tradition, Bharata Muni received Lord Siva for the marriage. Hence the name Ethir kol padi (In Tamil Ethir Kol means to receive) 
There is a small madam for Appar in the street leading to this temple. We had a chat with an elderly devotee in the madam and he chanted Appar pathigams and blessed us, he was also kind enough to offer stay in the madam during our next visit.



After the darshan at this temple, we returned to mayiladuthurai, had lunch at Kaliakudi hotel and returned to Ranga residency for a couple of hours break.

Click here to view the map of five temples location
Courtesy - Google Maps

Evening Session

1. Poompuhar Beach
After having rested for about 2 hours, we started from Mayiladuthurai about 4 pm and decided to have a short break at Poompuhar beach before proceeding to temple darshan. Beach is about 25 kms from Mayiladuthurai, it is a direct drive eastbound on SH22 highway, follow the sign and beach can be reached without any hassles.

Poompuhar is a small town in Nagapattinam district, ancient name is Kaveripoompattinam. It is a historically significant place, it served as the capital of the Early chola kings and an important trade harbour during the ancient times. Also, this is the place where Silapathikaaram, one of the five epics of tamil has taken place. There are memorial arches, one for each of the characters of Silapathikaaram along the highway leading to the beach. The main character is Kannagi for whom the statue is also present in the middle of the town.

It's a small beach, good for a short break, there is a light house nearby. There is also a Silapathikaaram art gallery depicting the various important scenes of the epic. It was closed when we reached, you can visit them if you reach before five. Just about a kilometre from the beach is the point where the river Cauvery merges with Bay of Bengal after her long journey originating from Talakaveri and traversing through multiple parts of Tamil nadu and Karnataka. This beach also has several shops selling dried sea goods.

Poompuhar is also the place for two important temples - Pallavanam and Chayavanam which are Paadal petra sthalams, since we have already seen them, it was skipped. 

We reached the beach around 5 pm and left at 5:30 pm to continue our temple darshan.



2. Melperumpallam - Valampurinathar/Naganathaswamy Temple

From Poompuhar beach, this temple is 7.5 kms, you have come back on the SH22 highway for about 6.5 kms and take a left turn at a place at Melperumpallam and travel for about a km to reach this temple. Ancient name of this place was Thiruvalampuram. We reached this temple around 6 pm.

This is a Paadal petra sthalam and has the privilege of all the three great saints - Sambandar, Appar and Sundarar singing the glory of the Lord. 

  • The presiding deity is Valampurinathar and the Ambal Vatuvakirkannammai
  • As per the legend Vishnu worshipped Siva and received His mighty Sudarshana Chakra and the mace. He also prayed to Goddess Parvati and received Valampuri Sangu (Conch shell) and Lotus.
  •  It is also believed that Heranda Muni who went into the ground in search of Cauveri river at Tiruvalanchuzhi is said to have re-emerged here. 
  • This temple is considered to be equivalent to Kasi in terms of sanctity. 

There is another important temple - Naganathasamy Temple which is the Parihara sthalam for Ketu (This is one among the famous Navagraha temples) located at about 4 kms at a place called Keezh Perumpallam.


3. Talaichangadu - Sangaranyeswarar Temple

From Valampurinathar temple, travel back on the same route to reach SH22 highway and turn left to continue for about 2 kms, at Kurungu puthur place, take a left turn and travel 2 kms to reach the temple. We reached this temple around 6:15 pm.

This is a maada koil (Maada koil refers to elevated temple structures - usually the main sanctum will be at the base, but in Maada temples there will be an elevation for a floor and the sanctum will be at a high place mainly designed this way to prevent elephants entering the temple) built by the ancient Chola King Kochenkatcholan. It had an enmity towards elephants by virtue of his previous birth and whatever temple he has constructed will be following the same pattern of elevated structures.He is also adorned as one among the sixty three nayanmars of Lord Siva. This is a Paadal petra sthalam sung by Sundarar. 

  •  The presiding deity is Sangu Nayakar, Shankarunatheswarar and the Ambal Soundara Nayaki 
  • The Theertham is Cauveri 
  • Legend has it that Vishnu worshipped Siva here to acquire Panchajanyam. (Talai Changu), the greatest of all Sangu (Conch) It is Interesting to note that the legend associated with this temple is the same as in previous temple - Melperumpallam (Tiruvalampuram) . Chitra Pournami is one of the important festivals celebrated here.

4.  Talaichangadu - Nanmadhia Temple (Divya Desam)

Just about 1 km from the previous temple is located Nanmadhia Perumal temple which is one among the Divya desams. We reached around 6:45 pm and the temple was already closed by then. Unfortunately we could not have darshan and we were told that the temple would be open from 9:30 am to 6:30 pm. Also the approach road to these temples is difficult to drive after sun set. 

5. Akkur - Thanthondriyappar Temple

From the previous temple Talaichangadu - Akkur is about 6 kms away, travel east for about half km and turn right into NH32, travel for 4 kms and turn right into  Akkur-Mayiladuthurai road and turn right into Indira Gandhi st to reach the temple. we reached this temple around 7 pm.

This Paadal petra sthalam has been sung by both Appar and Gnanasambandar. This is also a Maada koil.

  • The presiding deity is Taantonreesar, Swayambu Nathar and the Andal Vaalarankanni, Katkora Netri 
  • The sthala Vriksham is Sarakkonrai and the Theertham Kumuda Theertham. 
  • Legend has it that Siva appeared in the guise of one of the 1000 guests - Aayirattil Oruvar, at a feast offered by a devout Chola monarch. An image of this manifestation is seen in this temple. 
  • This temple is also known as Taantonrimaadam - that which appeared on a self manifested hillock.


6. Thirupariyalur (Parasalur) - Veeratteswarar Temple

From Akkur, Thirupariyalur is about 9 kms away. From Akkur temple, travel west in Mayiladuthurai road for about 6 kms and turn left into Parasulur road (current name for Thirupariyalur is Parasalur), continue for about 3 kms to reach the temple. The last 2 kms is a very narrow road and difficult to drive during night times. We reached the temple around 8 pm.

On the way to Thirupariyalur, there are two more Paadal petra sthalms - Vila nagar Uchinareeswarar and Semponar Koil. Since we have already visited them, it was skipped. If you have time you can also plan to cover them.

This is one among the eight Veeratta sthalam (this has been explained in the first section of the blog under Thiru Korukai temple). This temple symbolises the vanquishing of Dakshan by Lord Siva. Dakshan, one of the sons of Brahma conducted a massive yagna and he invited all the celestial Gods except Siva and Dakshayani(another name of Goddess Parvati) due to his arrogance. Dakshyana was Dakshan's daughter and in spite of that she was also not invited. But she attended the Yagna inspite of Lord's warning. To her dismay, she was insulted by her father Dakshan and unable to bear the insult she entered the Yagna fire and immolated herself. Lord Siva became extremely furious and created Veerabhadra, a ferocious form of himself and commanded him to destroy the Yagna and kill Dakshan. None of the celestials could control the wrath of Veerabhadra and Dakshan was beheaded. However, later hearing to the plead from Devas and other Gods, Dakshan was revived by providing a goat's head. 

This is also a paadal petra sthalam and Gnanasambandar has composed the pathigam.

  • The presiding deity is Veeratteswarar and the Ambal Ilankombanaiyaal; Balambika 
  • The Theertham is Homa Kundam 
  • Legend has it that the Devas are believed to have got rid of their fear caused by the demon Dharuka by worshipping Siva at this shetram. 
  • This is also a Thirupugazh sthalam where Lord Muruga has been praised by Arunaigirnathar.
Final pooja for the day was completed by 8:30 pm, being a sunday some special pooja was done and the devotees were offered generous amount of various types of rices as prasadam. Dinner also got over with this.

After having darshan at this temple, we traced back the same path to reach Mayiladuthurai road ( have to turn left at the highway and continue for about 11 kms to reach Mayiladuthurai.



Courtesy - Google Maps





Sunday, 22 September 2019

Travel Guide - Mayiladuthurai Temples-Part 1

Mayiladuthurai, a town in Nagapattinam district serves as an important hub for many of the significant temples in South Tamilnadu. So I decided to embark on a pilgrimage to Paadal petra sthalams and Divya desams around Mayiladuthurai, details of which are given below. It was a three day trip starting from Chennai and each day is presented as a part. We started from Chennai (Korattur) at 5 am in the morning to reach Thiruvamur (via Arasur road - although it is longer by 10 kms road it is better than Vikravandi Panruti route since the road is bad) by 9:30 am. 

1. Thiruvamur, birthplace of Appar
Thirunavaukarasar also known as Appar was a seventh century saint poet and prominent among the 63 nayanmars. He was born in Thiruvamur, a small beautiful village located at about 11 kms from Panruti. 

His childhood name was Marulneekiar. His sister, Thilagavathiar was betrothed to a military commander who died in a war. When his sister was about to end her life, he pleaded with her not to leave him alone in the world. She decided to lead an ascetic life and bring up her only brother. 

In his early boyhood life, Appar was very much interested in Jainism and started studying its scriptures. He went away from home and stayed in their monastery and was renamed Darmasena.Appar had travelled to ThiruPadhiripuliyur (Cuddalore) to join a Jain monastery where he was given the name Dharmasena. 


After a while, afflicted by a painful illness in his stomach , Dharmasena returned home. He prayed for relief at the Siva temple where his sister served and was cured. He sang his first praise on Lord Siva at Veeratteswarar Temple at Panruti where he was cured of his stomach ailement. After hearing his song, Lord Himself named as Navukkuarasar(king of tongue - meaning one who is proficient in composing great poems)He was also involved in converting the Pallava king, Mahendravarman to Saivaism. The house where he lived initially has been converted into a temple and named as Appar Swamy Temple. There is a 1200 years old tree in this temple called as Kalar Ugai which had helped in curing the stomach ailment of Appar, few leaves of the tree were offered as Prasadam.



Kalar Ugai Tree - 1200 years old - believed to have cured the stomach ailment of Appar

At a walkable distance from this temple, there is a small and beautiful Lord Shiva Temple. The presiding deity is Pasupathieswarar and the Ambal Thirupura Sundari. This is one of the vaipu sthalam where Appar has made a reference to in his thevaram pathigam. Lord Murga in this template has been sung by Arunagirinathar temple in Thirupugazh.

Since this is located in a small village, not many people were there in the temple. It seems only during Sadaya natchara days, devotees will be visiting. 


2. Chidambaram Temple
After having darshan at Thiruvamur, we proceeded to Chidambaram via Vadalur and Bhuvanagiri to reach by 11:45 am. Whenever there is an opportunity we would visit Chidambaram and since it was enroute to Mayiladuthurai we decided to make an halt and had delightful darshan of Natarajar and Govindaraja Perumal. Good thing about Chidambaram is that you will see lot of Prasadam distribution and were lucky to get some ghee laden Kesari and Curd rice which quenched our hunger. Since there is lot of info about Chidambaram online, I am not repeating them here.

Then we started our travel to Mayiladuthurai and reached by 1:45 pm. We decided to have lunch at Kaliakudi hotel which is near Mayiladathurai tower clock as per the recommendation from our cab driver. Lunch was excellent and we decided to have our food in this hotel only for the next two days stay there. Then we moved to Ranga Residency where we have booked our stay for two nights. This residency is situated at about 2 kms from the town in a quiet residential area and just adjacent to Parimala ranganathar temple. Triple room was booked for INR 1100 per day as per the prevailing deal and it was good value of money. Facilities were decent considering the town infrastructure.

3. Therazhundur  Vedapureerwarar Temple (Paadal Petra Sthalam)
After resting for a while at the residency, we started our journey around 3:30 pm from Mayiladuthurai to visit Therazhundur. After travelling about 11 kms on the Kumbakonam highway turn left onto the road leading to Komal, temple is located at about 4 kms on this road. There is an arch for Kambar memorial. We reached the temple around 4:30 pm and it was opened by 5 pm.

Therazhundur is a small village in the nagapattinam district and famous two major temples - Vedapureeswara temple and Amaruviappan temple (Divya Desam). Both the temples are exactly situated opposite to each other with a street separating them, another unique feature which is rarely found.This village has the privilege of being the birth place of Kambar, a great tamil poet who wrote Ramayana in Tamil.Many Tamil poets, statesmen, kings, and common people have praised Kambar for his Kambaramayanam, which has more than 11,000 songs and 45,000 lines, forming one of the greatest of Tamil epics.

We first visited the Vedapureeswarar Siva temple. The very look of the temple clearly tells this is a age old temple (at least 1500 years old). Features of the temple are


  •  The presiding deity is Vedapureeswarar and the Ambal Soundara Nayaki.
  • The Theertham is Sidhaamritam. Thirugnanasambandar composed the Pathigam. 
  • As per the legend, once Lord Siva and Lord Lord Vishnu were engaged in a game of dice and Parvati was the referee to the game. Parvati rules in favour of Vishnu in a game dispute and Lord Siva curses her to be born in earth as a cow. This is depicted as a painting in the temple mandapam leading to the main shrine. Having separated from His consort, Siva happened to be reciting Vedas in this temple, hence the name Vedapureeswarar
  • King Oorduvaradhan did a penance on Lord Brahma and got a Chariot. With this, he had the power to fly in the chariot and had become arrogant and incurred the wrath of the rishis, whose curse resulted in the chariot coming crashing down into this place . Ther (Chariot) Azhundia (stuck) Oor (place), hence the name Therazhundur



4. Therazhundur Sri Devadirajan Temple (Divya Desam)
After having darshan at Vedapureeswarar temple, we just walked across to the Devadirajan temple across the street. 

As the name Devadirajan suggests, 13 feet Lord Vishnu stands like the king of Devas showering His Grace showering on devotees. This temple is one (23rd) among the 108 Divya Desams of Lord Vishnu sung by Thirumangai Aazhwar.(45 pasurams)
  • Moolavar is Devathi Rajan Grand Standing Posture, East Facing and Utsavar is Aamaruvi Appan and Goddess is Sengamala Valli .
  • As per the legend, Lord Brahma stole all the cows of Ayarpadi which were under Lord Krishna's custody and locked them at Theruzhunthur. Lord Krishna, taking cognizance of this,created a whole new herd of cows at Gokulam. Lord Brahma then asked Lord Krishna to forgive him and persuaded to stay permanently at this place and bless the devotees.
  • Unique feature of this temple is that Garuda is present in the main shrine along with the Lord the reason being Garuda gave the Vimanam at this temple at Thiru Vazhandur( the Gold ornament was given to Thiru Narayanan at Melkote near Mysore). Happy at this gesture of Garuda, the Lord accorded him a special status at this temple with a position alongside him at the sanctum sanctorum, a unique feature at a Divya Desam. Normally one finds Garuda opposite the Lord but here he is seen next to the Lord Himself. 
  • One can see picture of Ramanujar fondly holding the Melkote Urchava moorthy near Thayar Sannidhi. There seems to be a link between this temple and Melkote Cheluva Narayana perumal temple.
  • There is a separate sannidhi for Kamban at this temple. The place where Kamban resided, on the Sannidhi street, has now been turned into a beautiful new ‘Kamban Mandapam’.



5. Kuthalam Uktha Vetheeswarar Kovil (Paadal Petra Sthalam)
From Therazundhur, then we travelled back on the same Komal road back into Kumbakonam highroad. After reaching Kumbakonam road, turn left and continue to reach Saradha marriage Mahal, at this turn right and continue on Uthira street for about 1.5 kms to reach this temple at Kuthalam. We reached around 6:15 pm.

Kuthalam is a small village in nagapattinam district, ancient name of this place is Thiruthuruthi

  •  The presiding deity is Sonnavaararivar, Ukta Vedeeswarar and the Ambal Arumbanna vanamulaiyaal, parimala sugandha nayagi 
  • All three - Appar, Thirugnanasambandar and Sundarar have sung the praises of the Lord of this temple.
  • The Sthala Vriksham is Kutrala Maram and the Theertham Kaveri Sambandar, Appar and Sundarar composed the Pathigam. 
  • Legend has it that Parvati is said to have expressed her desire to Siva to have the experience of an earthly wedding; Siva obliged and so she was reborn as the daughter of Bharata Muni. Responding to the prayers of Bharata Muni Siva emerged from the lingam at Tirutturutti and lent His hand in marriage to Parvati. 
  • The name Sonnavaararivaar stems from this legend that Siva kept his word and the name Manavalanathar is attributed to Him on marrying Parvati. Agni and Varunan are said to have been blessed by Shiva here. 
  • Priest of the temple was kind enough to explain the important aspects of the temple. Lord Shiva had come to the temple to marry Parvati and as an evidence the tree (Sthala vriskham) Uthala tree is said to have come along with the Lord as a canopy. There is a small elevated platform at the base of this tree and even now a couple of foot wear is laid inside a glass box. This footwear is said to be the Lord's foot wear, also the small flower buds from this temple is said to possess enormous medicinal value, priest collected some of them and gave it to me as Prasadam.
  • Sundarar got cure for his skin ailments after worshiping the Lord here, also it is believed that people with skin diseases can get cure by praying here.

Uthalam Tree - Lord Siva's Footwear can be seen inside the glass box
6. Thiruvelvikudi - Kalyanasundareswarar Temple (Paadal Petra Sthalam)

After having a wonderful darshan at Kuthulam, we decided to go to Thiruvelvikudi which is about 2.5 kms from Kuthalam. Continue on Pandanallur-Kuthalam road for about half km and turn right into Kallanai-Poompuhar road to reach this temple. We reached this temple around 7:15 pm.

  • The presiding deity is Kalyanasundareswarar, Manavaleeswarar and the Ambal Parimalasugandha Nayaki 
  • Both Thirugnanasambandar and Sundarar have sung one pathigam each.
  • The Theertham is Mangala Theertham Sambandar and Sundarar composed the Pathigam. 
  • Legend has it that Siva is said to have blessed the marriage ceremony of a devout prince here, hence the name Kalyanasundareswarar. 
  • Shiva is said to made the promise to marry Parvati here, hence the name (Sonnavaararivaar). 
  • As per the priest, this temple is more significant than Thirumanancheri where people offer prayers for removal of obstacles in marriage. Since this is the place where the engagement and commitment to marry Parvati has happened, praying at this temple is said to remove marriage obstacles. When we visited, we could see a yagna being performed by the parents of a son whose marriage was getting delayed due to various reasons.


7. Sri Vanmutti Perumal Temple (Athi Varathar)
Most of us are aware about recent Athi Varathar darsanam in Kancheepuram and how nearly 10 million (1 crore) people flocked and waited in several miles queue for hours together to have a few seconds glimpse of the magnificent Lord Varathar. Many people suffered hardship, some unfortunate ones lost their lives in their mission to see the Lord. While it is good to see that such a vast number of people have a devotional aspiration but the motive behind such a response needs to be carefully analyzed - did they respond just because it is a rare event occurring once in 40 years? This seems to be the case and it is time people should rethink about their devotional outlook - there are several Divya Desams and Paadal Petra Sthalams where the Lord is always bestowing His Grace; one can have a peaceful and hassle free darshan in these temples. In spite of this, if fig tree idol is what you are looking at, then you can visit Sri Vanmutti Temple near Mayiladuthurai.

After visiting Thiruvelvikudi temple, we proceeded to Vaan Mutti perumal temple at Kozhikuthi. From Thiruvelikudi, you have to take Kallanai Poompuhar road towards Poompuhar and travel for 5 kms to reach this place.

If you are travelling from Mayiladuthurai, you have travel west on Kumbakonam highway for about 5 km and turn right just before Margasagayar Sivan temple, travelling 2 kms on this road will take you to the temple. Features of this temple are


  • The idol stands majestic with a height of about 14 feet
  • The root of the tree is still intact, essentially the template has been built around the tree with the root representing the lotus feet of Lord Vishnu
  • Temple is more 1200 years old - built by Kulothunga Chola
  • The main deity (moolavar) is Vanmutti Perumal and Urchavar is Yoga Narasimhar.
  • Pippalar Maharishi got rid of his curse and skin ailment after worshiping here. As per the legend, Pippalar was shown guidance by Marga Sagaya Eswarar (this temple is also nearby enroute) to do penance and absolve his previous birth sins of killing people.


Day 1 is complete with this visit and concluded by 8 pm to return to Mayiladuthurai.

Trip Map is given below for reference

Click here for trip map - Courtesy Google Map

Courtesy - Google Maps

Links given below for day two and day three travel guide.

Day 2 travel guide

Day 3 travel guide