Sunday 16 December 2018

Kanchipuram - Kailasanathar Temple - Masterpiece of Pallava Architecture

Kanchipuram, a town located at about 70 kms from Chennai has the privilege of being a holy land with hundreds of temples speckled across the breadth and width of the town. There are several important temples there and Kailasanathar temple for Lord Shiva is one among the crown jewel of temples.

This is a magnificient 1300 years old temple with exquisite sandstone sculptures estimated to be constructed somewhere between 685 AD to 705 AD by the Pallava dynasty king Rajasimha (Narasimhavarman II). The entire temple premise contains numbers numerous beautiful sculptures, it contains 58 small shrines for Lord Shiva built into the inner walls of outer circumambulatory passage.It is the first structural temple built in South India by Narasimhavarman II (Rajasimha), and who is also known as Rajasimha Pallaveswaram. His son, Mahendravarman III, completed the front façade and the gopuram (tower). The Kailasanathar temple became the trend setter for other similar temples in South India.According to local belief, the temple was a safe sanctuary for the rulers of the kingdom during wars. A secret tunnel, built by the kings, was used as an escape route and is still visible.

Currently this is well maintained by Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), well manicured grass lands surround the temple and the entire temple compound is clean which greatly enhances the landscape of the temple, no doubt this is one of the popular tourist places in Kanchipuram.



The main shrine houses a giant splendid 16 sided Sivalingam typical to the Pallava signature of Sivalingams. An inner circumambulatory passage is located on the left of the main shrine with narrow entry and exit on the right side of main shrine. One has to enter the narrow entry by crouching, traverse the inner circumambulatory conduit by walking and again exit out on the right side by bending the body as if in a womb position. This is symbolical of the birth and death cycle every living being has to pass through in this world. The difficulty level imposed by this entry and exit implies that every birth and death in the world is a painful process and even in the life time between these extremes, it is always full of dualities - pleasure and pain in cycles, desires that could not be fulfilled, anger, jealousy and what not. In order to attain perpetual divine bliss, one must understand the transitory nature of life and things in the world and pray to the Lord Siva for redemption from this birth-death cycle.



This temple also has an interesting story, there was a great devotee of Lord Siva - Poosalar who lived in a place called Thirunindravur, near to Chennai. He wanted to build a temple for Lord Siva but he did not any wealth for constructing this temple. He tried on with multiple means to get help but could not get the required funds. His unrelenting devotion did not yield, he decided to construct a temple in his heart and stone by stone he was making progress of his virtual temple in his mind and heart. The temple was almost ready and he fixed up a day for consecration (kumbabhishekam). Fascinatingly, Kailasanathar temple construction was also in progress in parallel and the pallava King Rajasimha has fixed the same date for consecration of his temple. Lord Siva appeared in the dreams of King and told him that the date for consecration needs to be postponed as there is a consecration in another temple at Thirunindravur.



The King was wonder-struck as he was not aware of any other new temples being constructed, so he went there and inquired about the new temple being built. No one in the village was aware of such a new temple but they made a reference to Poosalar's quest for constructing a new temple. The King met Poosalar and asked him about the temple construction to which he politely explained about he was constructing the temple in his heart. The King understood the pure devotion of Poosalar which made Lord Siva Himself give priority for his temple rather than his magnificently built temple and promised him to build the temple that he envisaged in his vision. Accordingly, the king built a temple in Thiruninravur and is called Hrudayaaleeswarar Temple. Poosalar is one among the 63 nayanmars.



Saturday 27 October 2018

Lord Siva Temples in Chennai Suburb - I

I decided to explore some of the ancient Lord Siva temples on the southern Chennai suburb. Starting from my residence at Korattur, I first reached Bheemeswara temple at about 7:15 am. Temple was locked and had to wait for until it was opened, had a good darshan and continued my journey in car to Manimangalam on Mudichur-Sriperumpudur road. (8 kms from mudichur). At Manimangalam, visited Kailasanathar temple and Dharmeshwar temple. Then I continued my travel on Karasangal- Manimangalam-Sriperumpudur which meets Tambaram - wallajabad road. After turning right continue for 2 kms to Mel Padappai- Sri Thazhuva Kuzhaindeeswar temple. (5 kms from Manimangalam). After this, I continued further to visit Nandeeswarar temple at Guduvanchery via wallajabad road and then on Chennai- Trichy highway. (13 kms from Mel Padappai). Total time taken is around 4 hours. Route map and temple details are given below.

Courtesy - Google Maps


1. Bheemeswara temple, Mudichur
Bheemeswara temple, popularly known as Siva-Vishnu temple is located at Mudichur close to Tambaram. Small but beautiful temple flanked by a big tank on the right, also there is another Amman temple on the other side of the tank.

Lord is known as Bheesmeswara and His consort Dharmambigai. Temple timings 7:30 am to 10:30 am and 5:30 pm to 8:30 pm.



2. Kailasanathar Temple, Manimangalam.
This is an ancient Chola temple believed to be nearly 2000 yrs old. This is a calm and beautiful temple with good parking space within the temple. There is a big banyan tree on the other side of the temple which provides a nice resting shade. Lord's name is Kailasanathar and his consort is Gnanambigai.



3. Dharmeswarar Temple, Manimangalam
Close to Kailasanathar temple about 200 metres away is located yet another beautiful ancient Siva temple.
The temple is spread over a large premise, fully fenced and under the control of Archaeological Society of India (ASI). It is declared as one of the national monument.
You can see a beautiful Siva lingam inside the sanctum of main shrine. There are inscriptions on the wall on the inner premises. There is a separate shrine for His consort Vedhambigai just outside the main shrine.
Outside the fenced area, you can paddy fields making us to wonder such a serene place exists in Chennai. There is also a huge banyan tree inside. The main shrine is surrounded by a well maintained and groomed garden.
Manimangalam has a very high historic importance because of the battle fought here between Narasimhavarma Pallava and the Chalukya King Pulikesi II. This battle was fought in Manimangalam during 7th Century AD.
The temple is open from 8 am to 5 pm.



4. Thazhuva kuzhaindeeswar temple, Padappai.

This temple is located at Mel padappai and has a legend similar to Kanchipuram.
Parvati got a curse from the Lord to take a human incarnation following Her closing of the Siva's eyes playfully. She did penance in Mangadu to absolve the curse, Siva directed Her to go to Kanchipuram and continue her penance. On her way, She has installed this lingam and worshipped. After reaching Kanchipuram, Mother created a lingam out of sand and embraced it when there were floods. The Lord became pleased with the embrace, hence the name.



5. Nandeeswarar Temple, Guduvanchery
This temple is located within a short distance from the GST main road off Guduvanchery bus terminus.
This beautiful temple is estimated to be at least 1000 yrs old dating back to Nandivarma pallava period. The Lord is known as Nandeeswarar and His consort as Soundara Nayaki.





Saturday 27 January 2018

Kampaheswarar/Sarabeswarar Shiva Temple - Thirubhuvanam (Near Kumbakonam)

Chola dynasty has contributed tremendously to the growth of temples in South India. Raja Raja Chola, the most prominent king among the Chola Kings constructed the magnificent Brahadeeswarar Temple at Thanjavur. He was also responsible for founding Rajarajeswaram (currently name is Tarasuram) Temple. His son, Rajendra Chola continued the father's legacy and constructed yet another masterpiece - Gangai Konda Cholapuram in commemoration of his victory and expanding the Chola Kingdom until Ganga. The glory of Chola dynasty was at its zenith during Rajendra's Chola. All these three temples are architectural wonders containing intricately sculpted stone statues and massive temple towers. No wonder, they have been enlisted in the world heritage sites of UNESCO.


Continuing the glory and tradition of building such marvellous temples, Kulothunga Chola III (belonging to the later chola period and considered to be last in Chola dynastry) built this famous Kampaheswarar temple at Thirubhuvanam (approx 1217 AD). Looking at the grandeur of the main temple entrance and the temple complex, one can infer that Kulothunga Chola has proved that he is in no way inferior matching the greatness of his forefathers Raja Raja and Rajendra.  It is the last of the four great temples built by the Cholas—and the last built by the last great Chola king.



Kulothunga Chola III made three wars against the Pandyas. After his victory in the third war, he held a grand celebration at Madurai, the Pandyan capital, and assumed the title of Tribhuvana Vira devar and built, in commemoration of his great victory, a temple here dedicated to Siva in the name of Tribhuvana Viresvarar. It is now called Kampaharesvaram, based on a local legend that a certain Chola king -  got relieved of the evil effects of Kampa(quaking) after his flight from Tiruvidaimarudur to this place where he took shelter, and so this locality was chosen for building the new temple. Hence the lord is referred as Kampaheswarar.

This temple is also famous for housing Sarabeswarar in a separate shrine within the temple complex
 - The Sarabha image, unlike its counterpart at Darasuram which is in a niche on the main wall of the temple, is housed in a separate independent shrine north-east of the central shrine. The Sarabha cult was a new one evolved in the latter half of the Later Ghola period. It is said that in Narasimha, an avatar of Vishnu, He continued his rampage even after achieving the immediate purpose of the avatar, namely, the destruction of the demon-king, Hiranyakasipu. Devas and men suffered, and the devotees of Siva prayed to their Lord for protection. Hence Siva assumed the form of Sarabhamurti, and relieved peoples’ distress by destroying the fierce Narasimha and sending back Vishnu to Vaikuntha.

This temple is just 6 kms from Kumbakonam, another famous temple town of Tamil Nadu.





Saturday 6 January 2018

Sivalokanathar Shiva Temple - Thirupungur (Near Vaitheeswaran Koil)

This Shiva temple praised by Thirugnanasambar, Appar and Sundarar is located about 3 kms towards west from the famous Vaitheeswaran Temple on the Kumbakonam-Thirupananthal road.


This temple is famous for Nandanar story. Nandanar was born in a lower case, he was denied entry to the temple due to a cruel practice adopted in those days. He had no choice other than worshipping the Lord from the temple entrance but the Nandi in front of the Lord was a big one which obstructed his view. Nandanar was upset but his devotion and love for Siva was so pure and intense, the Lord himself Graced to moved the huge Nandi and the flag post to one side so that he will have a direct line of vision towards the Siva lingam in the main sanctum. People then realized his greatness and duly conferred as one among the 63 Nayanmars. He is called as Thiru Naalai Povar Nayanar, there is a separate shrine for him inside the temple.
On the entrance we could see that the Nandi and Flag Post are offset towards right instead of being at Centre


Nandanar Shrine within the temple


One among the Paadal petra shiva sthalams - 20th among the templates located on the northern banks of river Cauvery

Lord's Name - Sivalokanathar
Ambal's Name (Consort) - Soundara Nayagi, Sokka Nayagi

The tank in the temple is said to have been created by Lord Ganesha overnight to help Nandanar. Siva lingam in the main sactum is a Swayambu Lingam(self manifested). Hence always enclosed in metal casing, on Mondays the casing will be removed for Swayambu darshan of the Lord. As per the legend, Brahma, Indira, Patanjali and Vyagarapadha have also worshipped here.

Tamil version of this blog is available in the following link