Saturday 12 October 2019

Travel Guide - Mayiladuthurai Temples-Part 2

This post is in continuation of my previous and it talks about day 2 of the temple trips around Mayiladuthurai. To refer to day 1 travel, click the link below

Day 1 travel guide

Day 3 Travel Guide

Forenoon Session

1. Thiru Nidur - Arulsomanathar Temple

We started from Mayiladuthurai (Ranga residency hotel) at about 6:45 am and the first temple visit planned was Thiru Nidur which is about 4 kms away. You have to travel north towards neivasal for about 3kms and then turn into agraharam street to reach Thiru Nidur. We reached around 7:15am and completed darshan by 7:45 am. This is yet another ancient temple, there is a big banyan tree on the entrance to the temple.

  • This is one among the Thevara Paadal Petra Sthalam and the presiding deity is Arulsomanathar, Somanathar and the Ambal Veyurutoliammai, Aalala Sundara Nayagi.
  • The sthala vriksham is Magizhamaram (Bakula) and the Theertham Senkazhuneerodai
  • Appar and Sundarar composed the Pathigam.
  • Legend has it that Indra, Surya, Chandra and Kaali are said to have worshipped here. Indra is believed to have created a Sivalingamout of earth from the banks of Cauveri river. Siva is also known as Karkateswarar and this name comes from the belief that a crab hadoffered worship to Siva. 
  •  On Sundays special worship is being conducted to Sun God in the shrine located in the temple.
  • Needur has been mentioned in ancient Sangam literature(Akanaanooru), and Sundarar and Appar have described its richness and natural wealth. It is believed that this shrine will remain indestructible through the great deluge, hence Needur (Needu in Tamil means one that lasts longer)
2. Thiru Korukkai - Veeratteswarar Temple

From Nidur, we proceeded to Thiru Korukkai which is about 7 kms away. You need to take the MDR257 route northbound towards kondal, after travelling for 2.8 kms in this road, take the left turn and continue for another 3 kms and then take left to reach the temple at about 1 km. 

Thiru Korukkai is a small peaceful village and this big temple is located among the lush greenery and coconut groves, humming of various birds provides a peaceful environment where one can feel the nature and meditate on the Lord peacefully. On the back side of the temple we saw a tree (Kadukai tree- Haritaki) on which hundreds of butterflies were buzzing around hoping from flower to flower of the tree, a great sight to behold.

Temple towers and other structures reflects the age of the temple, unfortunately they are not maintained for several years and we could see the rustic look with severe algal growth everywhere. We reached the temple around 8:30 am, main sanctum was closed and priest was also not present. Since the footfall is very low, generally these temples in remote locations will be closed condition. But the priests will be residing nearby and can be requested to open the temple. We asked the locals for priest's house which is just 200 metres away from the temple and he promptly obliged to open the temple. He was also kind enough to explain the significance of the temple.

This is one of the eight Veeratta sthalams of Lord Shiva. Veerata sthalam signifies the place where the Lord has expressed his ferocious form to kill demons or aid devas and the people for betterment of the world. In this Shrine, Lord Shiva burnt Manmathan, the Lord of Love, in the main sanctum at the base of the Sivalingam you can see a mark which represents the arrow of Manmathan shot at the Lord. As per the legend, there was once a demon by name Surapadman who had a boon that he could be killed only by a son of Lord Siva. By virtue of this boon, he was troubling the devas and conquered them, devas in their deseparate need to save themselves approached the Lord and appeal for a son of His to come and save them. But He was in deep transcendental meditation and no one could approach him. So they asked Manmathan to shoot an arrow of love from his sugarcane bow to disturb Lord's meditation. Extremely furious about the distraction caused by Manmathan, Lord Siva opened his third eye and Manmathan was reduced to ashes immediately. Manmathan's wife Rati pleaded to the Lord for forgiving her husband's mistake and restore his life. Lord was gracious and granted her wish that Manmathan will come back during the time when He marries Parvati. Lord also told the Devas that His son will be born soon and Lord Karthikeya was born who vanquished the demon Surpadman and his brothers.

Just about 300 metres from the temple, there is a small road that leads to the pit which according to the legend holds the ashes of Manmathan. This pit is located in a beautiful banana tree garden.

  •  The presiding deity is Veeratteswarar and the Ambal Gnanambika T
  • The sthala vriksham is Kadukkai and the Theertham Trishula Ganga 
  • One among the Paadal petra sthalams, Appar composed the Pathigam 
  •  A rishi by name Deergavahu performed the ritual of visiting several Saivite shrines, and invoking the river Ganges through his Yogic powers offered the waters to Siva. It is said that his arms got shrunk as he did the same at this sthalam, hence Tirukkurukkai. The annual brahmotsavam festival is conducted during the Tamil month of Masi. The slaying of Kama is enacted on Masi Magham.




Manmathan Ash Pit - Vibhuti Kuttai

3. Anniyoor (ponnoor) -Abathsahayeswarar  temple

It was almost 9:30 am when we completed the darshan at Thiru korukai and we were feeling hungry, since this is a small village you cannot hotels, so we started from Thiru Korukai to Ponnoor, although the road was small and winding, it was extremely beautiful with lush green paddy fields and coconut trees providing a picturesque location, we did some photo shoot and selfies, we asked the local villages about where can we find food and they pointed us to a small tea shop at a place called Pandur. It was a small tea shop run by a lady and the only option available was Idly with spicy onion chutney. But it was good and we quenched our hunger.

Ponnur is about 5 kms from Thirukorukai, there are no major named roads, but not difficult to navigate with help of local people guidance and google maps.

This is also a paadal petra sthalam and both Sambandar and Appar have composed the pathigam.
  • The presiding deity is Aabatsakayeswarar and the Ambal Periya Nayaki. 
  • The sthala vriksham is Lemon tree and the Theertham Varuna. 
  • We saw in the previous temple that Lord Shiva burnt Manmathan, following that Rathi Devi, wife of Manmathan prayed to Lord and He graced such that Manmathan will be visible only to her eyes until the curse is fully absolved.
  • The Pandavas are also believed to have visited this shrine. Siva is said to have blessed Harischandra here, and hence the name Aabatsakayeswarar. The sun's rays illuminate the sanctum for five days from the 24th day of the Tamil month of Panguni and hence this shrine is referred to as a Bhaskarastalam.
  • Another significant factor in this temple is that Lord Dakshinamurthy statue has a Simmam (Lion face) at the base, pls check the photo given below




4. Thirumanancheri - Arulvallal Nathar Temple

Thirumanancheri is about 6 kms from Ponnoor, you have to travel west bound on Kuthalam- thirumanancheri road for nearly 5.5 km and the last half km will be through a narrow road across a culvert.

We reached Thirumanancheri at about 11:15 am, although this is a Paadal Petra Sthalam sung by both Sambandar and Appar in their Thevara pathigams, this temple is more popular for removing the obstacles in marriage. It is a custom that those potential bridge/bridegrooms facing problems in their marriage offer prayers and after their marriage they come as couples and offer the parihara pooja again as the thanks giving to the Lord's Grace. Normally, devotees rush will be high in this temple.

As per the legend, this is the place Lord Shiva married Parvati. Goddess was born as the daughter of Bharata Muni and married the Lord.

  • The presiding deity is Arul Vallal, Kalyanasundareswarar and the Ambal Kuyilin Menmozhiammai, Kokilaambaal 
  • The sthala vriksham is Vanni and the Theertham Samudra Theertham 
  • Siva emerged from the lingam at Tirutturutti. Bharata Muni approached Siva and asked for his hand in marriage to Parvati and was married to Siva at this shetram, hence the name Tirumanancheri, and the Lord Kalyanasundareswarar. 
  •  The Tirukkalyanam is celebrated in the Tamil month of Chittirai; Kartikai Deepam, Arudra Darisanam and Navaratri are also celebrated here.

5. Thiru Ethirkol Padi (Mela Thirumanancheri) - Iyravatheswarar Temple

Just about half a km away from the Thirumanancheri temple is this beautiful temple. This is also a Paadal petra sthalam sung by Sundarar. It's quite ironical to see that this temple is not visited by many people, you could see devotees flocking to the Thirumanancheri temple but not bother to visit this temple which is close by. Rather than concentrating only on Parihara sthalams, if the devotees visit other temples also, it will definitely help in better maintenance of the temple and ensure livelihood of the priests also. It has to be borne in mind that the same Lord Siva is prevalent in all the temples and ready to shower His Grace. We reached this temple around 12 noon with only a few minutes let to close.

  • The presiding deity is Airavateswarar and the Ambal Malarkuzhal Maadammai. 
  • In the previous temples we saw that Lord Siva married Parvati, prior to the marriage, it is customary to receive bride groom and following the same tradition, Bharata Muni received Lord Siva for the marriage. Hence the name Ethir kol padi (In Tamil Ethir Kol means to receive) 
There is a small madam for Appar in the street leading to this temple. We had a chat with an elderly devotee in the madam and he chanted Appar pathigams and blessed us, he was also kind enough to offer stay in the madam during our next visit.



After the darshan at this temple, we returned to mayiladuthurai, had lunch at Kaliakudi hotel and returned to Ranga residency for a couple of hours break.

Click here to view the map of five temples location
Courtesy - Google Maps

Evening Session

1. Poompuhar Beach
After having rested for about 2 hours, we started from Mayiladuthurai about 4 pm and decided to have a short break at Poompuhar beach before proceeding to temple darshan. Beach is about 25 kms from Mayiladuthurai, it is a direct drive eastbound on SH22 highway, follow the sign and beach can be reached without any hassles.

Poompuhar is a small town in Nagapattinam district, ancient name is Kaveripoompattinam. It is a historically significant place, it served as the capital of the Early chola kings and an important trade harbour during the ancient times. Also, this is the place where Silapathikaaram, one of the five epics of tamil has taken place. There are memorial arches, one for each of the characters of Silapathikaaram along the highway leading to the beach. The main character is Kannagi for whom the statue is also present in the middle of the town.

It's a small beach, good for a short break, there is a light house nearby. There is also a Silapathikaaram art gallery depicting the various important scenes of the epic. It was closed when we reached, you can visit them if you reach before five. Just about a kilometre from the beach is the point where the river Cauvery merges with Bay of Bengal after her long journey originating from Talakaveri and traversing through multiple parts of Tamil nadu and Karnataka. This beach also has several shops selling dried sea goods.

Poompuhar is also the place for two important temples - Pallavanam and Chayavanam which are Paadal petra sthalams, since we have already seen them, it was skipped. 

We reached the beach around 5 pm and left at 5:30 pm to continue our temple darshan.



2. Melperumpallam - Valampurinathar/Naganathaswamy Temple

From Poompuhar beach, this temple is 7.5 kms, you have come back on the SH22 highway for about 6.5 kms and take a left turn at a place at Melperumpallam and travel for about a km to reach this temple. Ancient name of this place was Thiruvalampuram. We reached this temple around 6 pm.

This is a Paadal petra sthalam and has the privilege of all the three great saints - Sambandar, Appar and Sundarar singing the glory of the Lord. 

  • The presiding deity is Valampurinathar and the Ambal Vatuvakirkannammai
  • As per the legend Vishnu worshipped Siva and received His mighty Sudarshana Chakra and the mace. He also prayed to Goddess Parvati and received Valampuri Sangu (Conch shell) and Lotus.
  •  It is also believed that Heranda Muni who went into the ground in search of Cauveri river at Tiruvalanchuzhi is said to have re-emerged here. 
  • This temple is considered to be equivalent to Kasi in terms of sanctity. 

There is another important temple - Naganathasamy Temple which is the Parihara sthalam for Ketu (This is one among the famous Navagraha temples) located at about 4 kms at a place called Keezh Perumpallam.


3. Talaichangadu - Sangaranyeswarar Temple

From Valampurinathar temple, travel back on the same route to reach SH22 highway and turn left to continue for about 2 kms, at Kurungu puthur place, take a left turn and travel 2 kms to reach the temple. We reached this temple around 6:15 pm.

This is a maada koil (Maada koil refers to elevated temple structures - usually the main sanctum will be at the base, but in Maada temples there will be an elevation for a floor and the sanctum will be at a high place mainly designed this way to prevent elephants entering the temple) built by the ancient Chola King Kochenkatcholan. It had an enmity towards elephants by virtue of his previous birth and whatever temple he has constructed will be following the same pattern of elevated structures.He is also adorned as one among the sixty three nayanmars of Lord Siva. This is a Paadal petra sthalam sung by Sundarar. 

  •  The presiding deity is Sangu Nayakar, Shankarunatheswarar and the Ambal Soundara Nayaki 
  • The Theertham is Cauveri 
  • Legend has it that Vishnu worshipped Siva here to acquire Panchajanyam. (Talai Changu), the greatest of all Sangu (Conch) It is Interesting to note that the legend associated with this temple is the same as in previous temple - Melperumpallam (Tiruvalampuram) . Chitra Pournami is one of the important festivals celebrated here.

4.  Talaichangadu - Nanmadhia Temple (Divya Desam)

Just about 1 km from the previous temple is located Nanmadhia Perumal temple which is one among the Divya desams. We reached around 6:45 pm and the temple was already closed by then. Unfortunately we could not have darshan and we were told that the temple would be open from 9:30 am to 6:30 pm. Also the approach road to these temples is difficult to drive after sun set. 

5. Akkur - Thanthondriyappar Temple

From the previous temple Talaichangadu - Akkur is about 6 kms away, travel east for about half km and turn right into NH32, travel for 4 kms and turn right into  Akkur-Mayiladuthurai road and turn right into Indira Gandhi st to reach the temple. we reached this temple around 7 pm.

This Paadal petra sthalam has been sung by both Appar and Gnanasambandar. This is also a Maada koil.

  • The presiding deity is Taantonreesar, Swayambu Nathar and the Andal Vaalarankanni, Katkora Netri 
  • The sthala Vriksham is Sarakkonrai and the Theertham Kumuda Theertham. 
  • Legend has it that Siva appeared in the guise of one of the 1000 guests - Aayirattil Oruvar, at a feast offered by a devout Chola monarch. An image of this manifestation is seen in this temple. 
  • This temple is also known as Taantonrimaadam - that which appeared on a self manifested hillock.


6. Thirupariyalur (Parasalur) - Veeratteswarar Temple

From Akkur, Thirupariyalur is about 9 kms away. From Akkur temple, travel west in Mayiladuthurai road for about 6 kms and turn left into Parasulur road (current name for Thirupariyalur is Parasalur), continue for about 3 kms to reach the temple. The last 2 kms is a very narrow road and difficult to drive during night times. We reached the temple around 8 pm.

On the way to Thirupariyalur, there are two more Paadal petra sthalms - Vila nagar Uchinareeswarar and Semponar Koil. Since we have already visited them, it was skipped. If you have time you can also plan to cover them.

This is one among the eight Veeratta sthalam (this has been explained in the first section of the blog under Thiru Korukai temple). This temple symbolises the vanquishing of Dakshan by Lord Siva. Dakshan, one of the sons of Brahma conducted a massive yagna and he invited all the celestial Gods except Siva and Dakshayani(another name of Goddess Parvati) due to his arrogance. Dakshyana was Dakshan's daughter and in spite of that she was also not invited. But she attended the Yagna inspite of Lord's warning. To her dismay, she was insulted by her father Dakshan and unable to bear the insult she entered the Yagna fire and immolated herself. Lord Siva became extremely furious and created Veerabhadra, a ferocious form of himself and commanded him to destroy the Yagna and kill Dakshan. None of the celestials could control the wrath of Veerabhadra and Dakshan was beheaded. However, later hearing to the plead from Devas and other Gods, Dakshan was revived by providing a goat's head. 

This is also a paadal petra sthalam and Gnanasambandar has composed the pathigam.

  • The presiding deity is Veeratteswarar and the Ambal Ilankombanaiyaal; Balambika 
  • The Theertham is Homa Kundam 
  • Legend has it that the Devas are believed to have got rid of their fear caused by the demon Dharuka by worshipping Siva at this shetram. 
  • This is also a Thirupugazh sthalam where Lord Muruga has been praised by Arunaigirnathar.
Final pooja for the day was completed by 8:30 pm, being a sunday some special pooja was done and the devotees were offered generous amount of various types of rices as prasadam. Dinner also got over with this.

After having darshan at this temple, we traced back the same path to reach Mayiladuthurai road ( have to turn left at the highway and continue for about 11 kms to reach Mayiladuthurai.



Courtesy - Google Maps